For these photos, I laced on the yarn rather than actually doing the weaving. This is a way to test the pin arrangement as the yarn is turned on every single pin that the actual weaving would have used. Many times faster to do. If you make your own loom you could test it out this way. Also can tell you if you have enough yarn. Below: the loom set at 15" width, full 60" length.
Installing the string connections between the alternate warps and the heddle rod. You pull up on the heddle rod to open that shed, then insert a shed stick on edge to hold it open .
Opening a shed using the shed stick. This has to be on the far side of the string heddles. The weaving started at the very end of the rectangle. At the far end of your loom, you will not be able to shuttle weave all the way.
My trick for passing the shuttle across the nail heads is to place a split vinyl tube over the row of nails on both sides. Now the shuttle slides smoothly through without catching the yarn on the nails.
Continuous strand weaving comes out perfect if the number of pins in the length of the rectangle relates to the number of pins in the width. The length will be an approximate multiple of the width, but not exactly when measured in inches.
Below are the possible continuous strand weaving rectangles with this Hideaway 4-Piece Adjustable Rectangle Loom: These same rectangles can be made on my original style rectangle looms, which I will continue to make. This 4-piece was a prototype experiment that I did to try to have less pieces, 4 instead of 6 for the 5' long rectangle loom.
I made the yarn loops by wrapping the yarn around a container and cutting it to make short lengths. Then I tied each one around a 2 x 4 and trimmed the ends.
Photo below shows the loom at the 20" widest setting and the 60" longest setting. There is also a 20" x 40" setting good for continuous strand weaving.
The new Hideaway 4-piece adj. rectangle loom has the same setting marks that my original design had. The red marks shows where to set the loom lengths for one of the three 12" width settings for continuous weaving. There are many other length settings that you can use for other weaving methods. I will be making a listing for this loom on Etsy. www.etsy.com/shop/RogersLooms
When you lace on the warp, have the starting end and the finish end on opposite corners of the loom. This is so the weft can also start and finish at the same corners. This way you can tie the warp and weft ends together to secure the weaving. In the photo the yarn ends are still fastened to the corner nail by slip knots.
The hair pick is a handy tool to use for packing in; for this type weaving and also continuous strand weaving.
Hideaway 4-Piece Adjustable Rectangle Loom
This time I started the weaving a distance from the end of the loom. These warp ends could become a fringe for the scarf. At the other end when you finish the weaving, you will have warp ends there for the other fringe. You will have to tie the fringes at the edges of the woven fabric to secure the edge. The sides of the weaving will be naturally secure.
This was my prototype for a new (to me) style adjustable rectangle loom. It adjusts in the 'pinwheel' method like other people make them.. As you can see from this photo of the 12" width short rectangle, this type of adjustable loom has the excess rails sticking out in 4 directions as the loom size is set to a smaller size. This is the "con" of this style adj. loom. I have one left, now listed on Etsy 12/22/17.
I have been making adjustable looms with 6 or more pieces. With this design, when you adjust down to a shorter rectangle, the total length of the frame doesn't change. I think this makes it more practical than the 4-piece rectangle loom, so I am not going to keep making the 4-piece looms. I started this new project when I heard of extra loom pieces being misplaced or damaged and I looked for a more simple way of making an adj. rectangle loom. It was a challenge to figure out how to make the settings and marks come out right with this design, but I like the original 6-piece design for the 5" rectangle looms, and (keeping it simple) it works exactly like my 6' and 7' rectangle looms. The 6-piece 5' rectangle loom can make all the same shapes and sizes as the 4-piece 5' rectangle loom. See the charts below.
Continuous weaving (bias weaving) is not the only type of weaving that can be done on a rectangle loom. Warp and weft shuttle weaving can also be done on a pin-frame rectangle loom. I have taken photos of this type weaving and posted them below on this page.
Below is the loom set at the 10" width, at full 60" length.
Warp and Weft Weaving. Can be done with a needle or a hook but just as with a harness loom, it is faster with a shuttle. A shed stick can hold open one shed by turning it on edge, the other shed can be held open with string loop heddles attached to the warps and held by a heddle rod. These string heddles must be close to where you are running through the shuttle, the shed stick must be on the other side away from the string heddles.
This method is similar to tapestry weaving, the big difference is you hook the weft yarn on the nails on each side, making a nice straight edge. The other difference is the weft will be spaced according to the side nails, which will be the same spacing as the warp. You could research tapestry weaving to learn more about string heddles and shuttle weaving.